Setup Guides

All models of the Haven Tent can be pitched on the ground as a bivy when trees aren't available - perfect for above treeline, sparse forests, or open areas like the Bonneville Salt Flats.

Setup:

• Choose a flat spot and lay out your tent system.
• Use trekking poles, sturdy sticks, or other supports to hold up the rainfly.
• Plant each pole a few inches from the end of the hammock body.
• Run straps or guylines from the pole to your stakes, angling them away from the pole for stability.
• Secure the end carabiner to the pole handle with the strap or guyline.

Pole setup tips:

• Use two or three anchor points per pole for better support and a tighter pitch.
• Adjust trekking pole height so the hammock body just barely touches the ground when empty.
• Tighter rainfly tension creates more interior space.

Once the structure is set:

• Insert the spreader bars, pad, and your gear as usual.
• All features - bug net, pockets, and spreader bars - work the same as when suspended.

Bivy mode keeps you ready for any environment where hanging isn't possible.

Want the full story? Read Going to Ground on our blog.

Guylines offer adjustable tension for various attachments.

Avoid attaching static lines to the tent's corner toggles - use the included guylines with sliding tensioners instead.

The corner toggles are designed to secure the rainfly corners and are not load-bearing.

Apply tension to the guylines, not directly to the toggles; outward tension to the toggles can cause them to tear off the tent.

Reducing sway: to calm the swing of the hammock, tie a short piece of shock cord (not static cord) to the corner toggles. Shock cord gives when a gust hits; a static line can rip a toggle off the tent.

For optimal comfort and to prevent damage to your Haven Tent and suspension, use the proper hang angle.

Ideal hang angle is generally between 15 and 30 degrees.

Use a Hang Calculator or similar method to estimate your angle if needed.

The correct angle helps ensure your head and feet are properly positioned and prevents overstressing the straps or trees.

The Haven Tent features two horizontal spreader bars designed to create flat sleeping space and keep the sidewalls away from your body.

These bars are not designed to support dynamic loads or misuse - avoid sitting or standing on them, or applying strong outward force, as this could cause them to bend and break.

For support inside the tent, use the structural ridgeline or straps rather than leaning heavily on the spreader bars.

The spreader bars should be inserted into the four designated pockets on the tent body at the head and foot ends, above the suspension arc.

Do not place the spreader bars underneath your sleeping pad.

If a bar does bend or snap, replacements are in our Replacement Parts collection — see Replacement Parts for everything else you can swap.

The Haven Tent features an integrated bug net designed to keep insects out while maintaining airflow.

You can use the tent with the bug net fully deployed, partially open, or fully stowed depending on conditions.

When not in use, the bug net can be stuffed into the large mesh pocket at the foot end of the tent along with the spreader bar.

The bug net is sewn to the hammock body it came with, so nets aren't sold separately or swapped between tents — a new net means a new hammock body. Small holes can be fixed with Bug Net Patches.

The Lounge Strap is pre-installed on each tent and is a webbing strap that runs along the underside of the head side of the tent.

It buckles to the opposite side and allows you to recline the tent into a floating lounge chair by pulling the strap downward until it cinches tight.

This feature is ideal for a slight recline while sleeping or relaxing with a book.

To lower the head end again, lift up on the buckle to release the strap. Wondering about the black strap on the underside of the Haven XL? That's the Lounge Strap — every model has one.

The structural ridgeline of the tent is designed to bear the entire load without damage, making it ideal for gear storage.

Clip a carabiner from your bag, boots, or other items to the ridgeline to keep them organized and off the ground.

Slide your gear toward your head or feet for convenient access and to keep it protected from the elements.

A Haven holds far more than you weigh, but where and how you hang it still matters. Follow these every time you set up.

Where to hang:

• Only hang from healthy, living trees, and look up before you commit: check the canopy for dead branches that could fall.
• Keep it low. We recommend a maximum hang height of 2 ft (60 cm) off the ground, so a fall is never a long one.
• Don't hang near a fire. Wind carries sparks farther than you'd think.
• Never leave children unsupervised inside the tent.

Weight limits (one person per tent):

• Haven Tent, Haven XL and Haven Spectre: 285 lb (129 kg)
• Haven Safari: 350 lb (158 kg)

These are the loads our warranty covers. Going over them can cause the tent to fail and injure you, and damage from excess weight isn't covered. We still test well past these numbers — the stress test is in our Haven Tent FAQs.

Look after your straps: keep tree straps away from moisture and sharp objects, in use and in storage. A tear or a contaminant like tree sap can weaken the webbing — one more reason to hang low.

Once the rainfly is set up initially, you typically don't need to remove it unless you prefer to.

Steps to attach:

• Set up the tent as normal, with the carabiners attached to the tent.
• With the tent detached from the tree straps, slide a carabiner up through one rainfly corner eyelet and down through the adjacent one.
• Pull the carabiner completely through both eyelets and then attach it to the tree strap.
• Repeat on the other side - the fly is now attached.

Your tent includes two fly loops, each with a toggle, on the ridgeline.

Wrap the fly loops around the ridgeline and secure with the toggles to keep the rainfly centered and stable.

When conditions are clear, you can leave the fly rolled up and secured so you can quickly deploy it if weather changes.

At night or in questionable weather, secure the rainfly so you can easily reach up, detach the toggles, and deploy it over the tent.

Rolling the fly and bug net up together: if you don't need bug protection, unzip the bug net on both sides, roll the rainfly and net up together from the bottom of the tent to the ridgeline, and wrap the toggles around each end. The net can't be used while it's rolled up this way — for bug protection with the fly up, use Stargazer Mode.

When a storm rolls in, undo the toggles and batten the fly down to the corner toggles of the hammock body.

The Silpoly Rainfly installs quickly and can stay attached for packing and storage.

To attach:

• Secure the corner toggles to the loops on the hammock body.
• Use the integrated zippers and snaps at the ends to close or open for ventilation.
• Attach interior hooks to elastic loops where provided.

Packing tips:

• Fold the hammock body in half over the spreader bars.
• Roll the system tightly around the bars.
• Flip the bottom up and finish rolling so it fits easily in the stuff sack.

Pitching options:

• Guy it open for maximum airflow.
• Guy it closed for increased rain protection.

The Dyneema Rainfly installs easily and can remain attached for packing and storage.

To attach:

• Secure the corner toggles to the loops.
• Zip and snap the ends closed, taking care not to snag the lightweight fabric.
• Attach interior hooks to elastic loops for a secure seal.

Pitching options:

• Guy it open for maximum ventilation.
• Guy it closed for rain protection.
• Secure in storm mode for high wind and severe weather.

For best rain protection, guy the fly away from the bug net to reduce condensation.

Moisture inside the rainfly is almost always condensation, not a leak.

Rainfly fabrics are highly waterproof (e.g. Dyneema ~20,000 mm hydrostatic head). Actual leaks are rare unless the fabric is damaged.

Condensation forms when warm, moist air from inside your hammock meets the cooler surface of the rainfly - like a cold soda can on a hot day.

To reduce condensation:

• Increase ventilation by opening zippers, creating gaps, or going to "porch mode" when conditions allow.
• Avoid breathing directly onto the rainfly surface when possible.
• In humid conditions, expect some condensation and use your pad and quilt to keep you dry and comfortable.

Still think it's leaking? Try the water test. Our rainflies are nylon-based, so the surface can feel wet even when no water is getting through. Hold the fly over a bowl or bucket, pour a couple of cups of water onto one spot, and let it sit for about an hour at room temperature. If nothing gets through, the fabric is doing its job and what you felt was condensation. If water does get through, contact us and we'll help.

Since the bug net is fixed to the tent, a lot of people ask how to roll the rainfly up while still keeping bug protection. It depends on whether you want the net usable or not.

Rainfly up, bug net stowed:

• Unzip the bug net all the way and stuff it into the large mesh pocket at either end.
• Roll up one side of the rainfly and use its attached fly loop to wrap around the ridgeline (and around your RidgeLight, if installed) to secure it.
• Repeat on the other side.

Rainfly up, bug net zipped (Stargazer Mode):

Wrapping the fly loops around the ridgeline blocks the bug net zipper from closing all the way, so keep bug protection by free-wrapping the fly loops around something other than the ridgeline itself:

• Zip the bug net all the way up first.
• Free-wrap each fly loop around something other than the ridgeline itself - if you have a RidgeLight installed, its two silicone ties are an easy anchor point.
• Roll up each side of the rainfly the same way, securing the fly loop around that anchor instead of the ridgeline.

No RidgeLight? Any similar small loop or tie-point works just as well - the key is just keeping the fly loops off the ridgeline itself so the zipper can travel freely.

The fastest and easiest way to inflate your pad is with the PowerPump, but if you don't have one, you can quickly inflate your pad with the included pump sack.

Steps:

1. Connect: Snap the valve stem located on the bottom of the stuff sack into the valve on your sleeping pad.
2. Prepare: Pull out the internal second liner of the stuff sack.
3. Inflate: Blow a column of air into the open end of the stuff sack.
4. Transfer: Push the air downward and into the sleeping pad.

With a little practice, you can inflate your pad in under 5 minutes - much quicker and easier than using your own breath.

If you find yourself leaning to one side within the tent, it's likely that your pad has shifted.

To fix it, sit or lie in the center of the hammock, brace with your feet or knees, and use your elbow or hand to push the pad back toward the center.

Adjust until your body feels level and supported.

Our insulated pads keep you warm through most of the year — you don't need an underquilt with a Haven.

R-values by pad:

• True Level XL and True Level Safari pads: R5.3
• Premium Insulated Pad: R5 (and 21% lighter than the Standard pad)
• Spectre Pad: R2.5
• Standard and Basic Safari pads: about R3

What R-value means: it measures how well a pad resists heat flow — the higher the number, the better it insulates. Sleeping pads are tested to the ASTM F3340 standard so numbers compare fairly across brands. The pad sits between two metal plates: the top plate is heated like your body, the bottom plate is kept cold like the ground, and sensors measure how much energy it takes to hold that difference. The less heat that gets through, the higher the R-value.

For transparency, here are our lab reports: True Level pad R-value test (PDF) and Standard Premium pad R-value test (PDF).

Camping in the cold? Add the Insulated Pad Cover. It roughly doubles your pad's insulation, with the most warmth under your core, so you won't need an underquilt even in colder conditions. How warm you sleep also depends on your sleeping bag or quilt, how well your rainfly is secured, and how much wind you're in.

The True Level XL Insulated Pad is the pad we recommend for the Haven XL. The original XL Insulated Pad still lets you lie flat head-to-toe; the True Level pad keeps you level shoulder-to-shoulder too.

What's different:

• No slump. The original XL pad is the same thickness all the way across, so if your frame doesn't fill the XL's full width it can fold slightly in the middle — especially on cold nights, when the air inside loses loft. The True Level pad is thicker in the middle with tapered edges, so it doesn't fold.
• Warmer: R5.3, versus about R3 for the original XL pad — with no added weight.
• Softer and quieter: 30d brushed polyester instead of 40d ripstop nylon.
• Better valve: a flip-over multi-function valve instead of a simple rubber stopper.

Both pads measure 30 x 80 in (76 x 203 cm), so the XL/Safari Insulated Pad Cover fits either one — and on the True Level pad it holds in even more heat.

Is it normal for my XL pad to fold? A slight fold can happen with the original XL pad, especially for smaller frames, and it shouldn't affect your comfort. To minimize it, inflate fully: after the PowerPump or pump sack, add an extra breath or two to fully pressurize the pad. If the fold still bothers you, the True Level XL pad is built to solve it.

You're welcome to try your own pad, but we recommend ours. In a Haven the pad is a structural part of the lay-flat design: it's sized to fit the tent frame exactly, and its strong horizontal baffles hold the sides open so the hammock doesn't wrap around you (the "burrito effect").

A pad that doesn't fit the frame precisely can slip or shift during the night, which is uncomfortable and affects how the tent works.

Buying the tent, pad and rainfly together saves about 40–50% on the pad's standalone price, so we suggest getting the full set and trying our pad. If it's not for you, you can return it under our return policy. For the design details, read The Secret Design Behind the Haven Tent.

If your pad seems to lose air, work through these steps before assuming it's broken.

1. Rule out temperature. Cold air takes up less space, so a pad inflated on a warm afternoon feels softer by the cold of night. Inflate it fully indoors, leave it overnight, and check it in the morning. Take before-and-after photos — timestamps help us a lot. If it has clearly lost pressure, keep going.

2. Check the valve. Make sure no loose insulation is caught in the valve and the rubber stopper is fully seated. Feel and listen around it for escaping air, and on Premium pads check that the O-rings are intact.

3. Find the leak. Inflate the pad and wipe a soapy sponge over the surface — bubbles show where air is escaping. You can also submerge it in a bathtub. Mark anything you find.

4. Tell us what you found. Start a claim at account.haventents.com or contact us with your photos or video:

• One or two leaks: we'll send you a Haven Repair Kit — its UV-activated sealant and patches work on all our pads.
• Several leaks, or you can't find it: send a picture or video of the problem, or describe what you found.

Pads within the 2-year defect warranty are repaired or replaced. Outside the warranty we're still here to help — every Haven pad, at any age, can go through our Pad Repair Program.

The Haven Spectre adds a gear sling to the bottom of the hammock — perfect for bigger items or anything you don't want inside with you, like dirty shoes or wet flip-flops.

It hangs underneath and out of the way, so your sleeping space stays clean and clear.

You can hang your backpack on the end of the hammock — it stays covered by the rainfly, but it becomes hard to reach.

A better option is to keep it right inside with you: clip the pack's handle to the ridgeline and rest the bottom on the spreader bar. Now it's easy to reach up in the middle of the night — grab your Haven Camp Pillow or anything else you need, then stash it away again.

Every Haven model includes two big end pockets plus pockets along the side for smaller items.

In bear country, never keep food, deodorant, or other scented items in your pack inside the tent. Store scented items well away from camp to stay safe and comfortable all night long.

Your Haven Stand includes rainfly poles that slide through pre-drilled ports in the ridgebar.

Insert each pole completely through its port, wiggling as needed to get around the internal shock cord.

Once the pole is through, thread its end through the rainfly corner eyelet.

Attach the included clip to the pole end and secure the metal wire to the port on the stand's leg.

Adjust tension by pulling the clip upward to your desired tightness.

A slight wobble in your stand is normal.

If it bothers you, push the legs inward toward the center of the ridgepole.

This levels the back stabilizer leg and removes most of the wobble.

The Haven Stand by YOBOGear is built for the Haven — we developed it with the hammock-stand experts at YOBOGear. If you'd rather use another stand, make sure it matches or exceeds these:

• Distance between end loops (minimum span): Haven Tent 104 in; Haven XL and Haven Spectre 108 in; Haven Safari 116 in
• Minimum hang height: 48 in

Stands that work include the Tensa4 and the YOBOGear Camper, Cricket and Hive.

No stand and no trees? Pitch off the back of your vehicle with a hitch mount — the Bare Bones XL fits every Haven model.

Ensure your tent is completely dry before packing; long-term moisture can lead to mildew.

If you must pack it wet, unpack and dry it thoroughly at home before storing for an extended period.

There's no single correct way to pack your tent - do what works best for you.

Recommended approach:

• Keep the rainfly attached to the tent.
• Remove the pad and spreader bars to keep the packed tent compact enough for the bag.

For a visual walkthrough, refer to the takedown video for technique and packing tips.

A dirty Haven means you've been out using it. A little care keeps it going for years.

Cleaning: the tent isn't machine washable. Spot clean with a warm, soapy rag and let it air dry. Shake it out after every trip to get rid of dirt, grass and leaves.

Drying: whenever you can, dry it in the sun — UV light helps stop mildew and mold from building up.

• Pick an open spot away from cover, so the sun reaches the whole tent.
• Hang the tent between trees with the spreader bars in.
• Pat any very wet spots with a dry towel.
• Take off the rainfly and dry it separately, and take out the pad.
• Leave it for a few hours until it's completely dry.

Storage: store the tent and every component somewhere dry, and keep tree straps away from moisture and sharp objects.

There are four Haven models, all with the same lay-flat design:

• Haven Tent — the lightweight original.
• Haven XL — more room to spread out.
• Haven Spectre — the size of the XL at half the weight, built for backpacking.
• Haven Safari — heavy-duty 300d polyester for glamping, rated to 350 lb.

Not sure which fits your trips? Take our 30-second quiz. Each product page lists weights, packed size and capacity, and our blog compares the Haven and the Haven XL. Picked the wrong one? You can exchange it for another size or model.

We don't offer custom or special-order hammocks — we put that effort into perfecting the models we make.

Every Haven Tent, Haven XL and Haven Safari kit comes with everything you need for a great night's sleep:

• Hammock body with built-in bug net
• Insulated air mattress with pump sack (unless you choose "no pad" — we don't recommend it)
• Rainfly
• 2 spreader bars
• 2 carabiners
• 2 tree straps (6 ft / 182 cm)
• 4 guylines
• 4 stakes

The Haven Spectre kit swaps in carbon fiber spreader bars, 12 ft Spectre tree straps, ultralight carabiners and a gear sling.

Packed size with pad and fly (approximate): Haven Tent 14 x 8 x 6 in (35 x 20 x 15 cm); Haven XL 16 x 8 x 6 in (40 x 20 x 15 cm); Haven Spectre 15 x 6 x 6 in (38 x 15 x 15 cm); Haven Safari 20 x 10 x 5 in (50 x 25 x 13 cm) — small enough for a motorcycle pannier. Exact weights and sizes for every configuration are on each product page.

Want to go lighter? Choose the lighter rainfly option when you order, and read our guide to cutting weight for backpacking. Round out your kit with our accessories.

Every Haven is a one-person tent. The Haven Tent, Haven XL and Haven Spectre are rated to 285 lb (129 kg) and the Haven Safari to 350 lb (158 kg); going over that can cause the tent to fail, and it voids the warranty.

A true two-person Haven would need a second ridgeline to keep the lay-flat frame open, so we don't make one — but we're always working on new designs.

Camping as a pair? Hang two Havens side by side. You stay close, and when one of you moves it doesn't jostle the other.

What is the Haven Spectre? The Spectre has the same dimensions as the Haven XL at half the weight — the same lay-flat comfort, optimized for backpacking.

Can I use my XL pad in a Spectre? Yes. The Spectre has the same internal dimensions as the Haven XL and Haven Safari, so the pads are interchangeable. We still recommend the Spectre Pad, which is designed as a structural part of the Spectre's lay-flat system.

What's the weight capacity? 285 lb (129 kg).

Can I use it without trees? Yes — like every Haven, the Spectre pitches on the ground in bivy mode, with trekking poles, sticks or whatever's handy holding up the ridgeline.

Can two people camp in one? It's a one-person system, but you can hang two side by side so one person moving doesn't jostle the other.

We love dogs, and you're welcome to invite yours into your Haven. A few things to know first:

• Not every dog loves a hammock. The tent will hold up fine, but some dogs feel unstable standing on a suspended platform. If yours is one of them, there's plenty of room to get cozy underneath.
• Trim their nails. Our insulated pad is tough, but sharp claws and an air mattress don't mix.
• Keep the weight balanced. The sleeping platform is flat and suspended, so too much weight at one end can slide you toward your head or feet. You'll usually be most comfortable with your dog at your feet.
• The weight limit covers everyone inside — you and your dog together.

For more tips, read our blog post on hammock camping with pets.

Hammock camping rules vary by park, and they change, so always check the park's website or visitor center before you go. Wherever camping is allowed you can use a hammock stand, and every Haven pitches on the ground in bivy mode if you can't hang.

Hammock camping allowed:

• Acadia National Park (ME) — not allowed in the backcountry
• Arches National Park (UT) — no trees, bring a hammock stand
• Big Bend National Park (TX)
• Biscayne National Park (FL)
• Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (CO)
• Bryce Canyon National Park (UT)
• Canyonlands National Park (UT)
• Capitol Reef National Park (UT)
• Colorado National Monument (CO)
• Congaree National Park (SC)
• Crater Lake National Park (OR)
• Cuyahoga Valley National Park (OH) — not allowed in the backcountry
• Death Valley National Park (CA)
• Denali National Park (AK)
• Dry Tortugas National Park (FL)
• Everglades National Park (FL)
• Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (UT)
• Grand Teton National Park (WY)
• Great Basin National Park (NV)
• Great Smoky Mountains National Park (NC/TN)
• Guadalupe Mountains National Park (TX)
• Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (HI)
• Hot Springs National Park (AR)
• Isle Royale National Park (MI)
• Kings Canyon National Park (CA)
• Lassen Volcanic National Park (CA)
• Mammoth Cave National Park (KY)
• Mesa Verde National Park (CO)
• Mount Rainier National Park (WA)
• Olympic National Park (WA)
• Rocky Mountain National Park (CO)
• Saguaro National Park (AZ) — don't hang from the cactus!
• Sequoia National Park (CA)
• Shenandoah National Park (VA)
• Theodore Roosevelt National Park (ND)
• Yellowstone National Park (WY)
• Yosemite National Park (CA)
• Zion National Park (UT)

Hammock camping not allowed:

• Carlsbad Caverns National Park (NM) — allowed in the backcountry
• Channel Islands National Park (CA)
• Gateway Arch National Park (MO)
• Great Sand Dunes National Park (CO)
• Joshua Tree National Park (CA)
• Petrified Forest National Park (AZ)
• Redwood National and State Parks (CA)

Are Haven tents fire resistant? Yes. All of our tents are CPAI-84 tested and treated with ammonium polyphosphate. Fire resistant doesn't mean fireproof, so always hang well away from your campfire and watch for sparks.

Do Haven products use PFAS? No. We don't use PFAS for waterproofing. Instead we use polyurethane, a thin layer that bonds with the fabric's fibers to make it waterproof and more durable — without the harmful properties associated with PFAS.

The Camp Fly is our biggest fly — roughly 12 ft x 9 ft with 4,000 mm waterproofing, built to give you more privacy, more protection, and more coverage than the standard rainfly.

In the bag: the fly, stakes, guylines, shock cord, and two ultralight carabiners. The shock cord is the piece people overlook — it keeps tension in the system and cuts down a lot of the flapping and noise that comes from wind.

Hanging it:

1. Find the peak at the top of the fly and clip your carabiner there.
2. Don't clip it in the same spot as the hammock. Our other rainflies integrate right into that carabiner, but the Camp Fly is much bigger by design — clip it there and you end up with a lot more fly on one side than the other.
3. Use a daisy chain loop instead, about 2 ft out from the hammock, then do the same on the other side.
4. Work out to where it starts to be a little bit snug. That's your balanced hang.

When the daisy chains aren't in the right spot — or you just want the fly higher — hoist it with one of the included guylines.

1. Make a loop in one end of a guyline. Nothing fancy here: a little figure-eight loop.
2. Feed it right through the loop on the tree.
3. Take that loop back down and connect it to your carabiner.
4. Hoist it up to the height you want.
5. The easiest place to tie it off is actually back into the carabiner — use that to cinch it, then finish with a single slipknot. Double it up if you don't want it to slide at all.

Taking it down is the payoff: pull the tail and the whole thing comes down. If the tail is in your way while you're camped, just tie it back out of the path.

Hanging it this way gives you more headroom to walk around underneath the fly.

There are a lot of different places you can guy out from — the end corners, the midpoints, and the points in between. We designed this fly to match the unique geometry of the Haven Tent system, so those points are there for a reason.

Attaching: feed the shock cord through the loop and then back through itself. It doesn't have to be complicated — a single slipknot means you can pull it and undo it really easily. But if it's going to be crazy or windy, sometimes it's worth doing a bowline or something else.

Mixing configurations: the two ends don't have to match. Guy one end open and close the other down when wind is coming from one direction but you still want space. Leave one end connected to the daisy chain and put the other a lot higher so you can walk in and out. Guy out the center along with the corner for more room as you move around underneath, and you'll still have quite a bit of visibility.

When there's nothing to stake to: sometimes you don't find trees or even ground in the right spot, so you have to be a bit creative. If a tree is in the way and you can't guy straight out, guy to the tree. Use a rock, a squiggly little tree, the big trees, the ground — everything in your environment.

Anchor down all the loose ends. When the fly is loose it billows in the wind and moves around quite a bit.

When you're locking the fly down for storm mode, it's nice to have it cover the hammock itself. Lower it until you can't see your hammock at all underneath the fly — hooking it right back to the daisy chain works well here.

On both ends you'll find snaps that help hold the ends closed. Feed one shock cord through and anchor them together.

For more space while you're still battened down, guy out that middle point and take the corner straight down to the ground. Do it on all four sides and it looks so clean. You can either access it from the end or kind of climb underneath.

Even locked down, the fly is guyed away from the hammock rather than pressed up against it — that's what keeps condensation down and airflow moving.

One nice thing about the Camp Fly: if you leave it guyed down, you can pack the tent away from underneath the fly. If it's raining, you're not getting wet as you pack the tent, and then you do the Camp Fly separately.

Once the tent is away:

1. Collect the stakes first — you'll use them to help roll up the fly.
2. Fold it in half: hold the carabiner and connect it to the carabiner on the other end.
3. Hold one end so you can get it really tight, then fold it over.
4. Disconnect the top carabiner and take it off.
5. Fold it down smaller than the stuff sack — but keep the carabiners accessible so you can grab them next time.
6. Use the stakes and start rolling it up. If you went a little wide, fold it in as you go.

Start at the ridge, not the bottom. Rolling from the ridge lets all the air escape. Roll the other way and it traps air, and it's impossible to fit back in the stuff sack.

Be sure to walk around the site before you go. Don't forget any stakes or guylines — it's happened to the best of us.

The Haven PowerPump inflates your air mattress in seconds, needs no extra nozzles or attachments to connect to Haven mattresses, and doubles as a USB backup battery for your phone or other devices.

Heads up — new version: the video above shows the original round PowerPump. The current PowerPump is square (about the same size), adds a clip on top so you can hang it from places like your ridgeline, and has a dimmable LED lantern on the bottom.

To use it:

1. Double-click the power button to turn it on. The double-click is intentional — it keeps the pump from switching on inside your bag and draining the battery.
2. Press the outlet against your pad's valve (no adapter needed) and let it inflate until firm.
3. Close the valve, then use the bottom lantern for camp light and the built-in battery to recharge your devices.

With 3,600 mAh on board, you'll have plenty left over to charge a phone. In a pinch it even works great for stoking a campfire.

The extra nozzle attachments in the box aren't needed for a Haven pad — they're there so you can inflate other sleeping pads and inflatables with different valve sizes. If you can't get your pad as firm as you like, make sure the pump is held snugly against the valve, then top off with a breath or two.

The RidgeLight is a dimmable LED light strip compatible with all versions of the Haven Tent.

1. Clip the carabiner on each end to your ridgeline.
2. Pull to adjust the strip until it's centered and taut.
3. Use the little loop for the spreader bar to hold the switch in place.
4. Dim it down low for a warm, sleep-friendly glow.

Power it from any USB power bank — the Haven PowerPump works great. And when you're not using it on the ridgeline, it makes a really cool lantern.

It won't turn on. The RidgeLight has no battery of its own — it runs on power from a charged USB power bank or the Haven PowerPump. Check that it's plugged in and that the power bank has charge. If the control box lights up but the strip stays dark or only partly lights, contact us and we'll help you troubleshoot or replace it under warranty.

It turns on or off by itself at night. That's almost never a defect. The switch is a touch switch: like your phone screen, it reacts to the tiny electrical charge from a fingertip, and that charge travels through conductive surfaces. If the switch is resting against a spreader bar, touching the bar can flip the light. Move the switch so it isn't touching anything conductive and it will stop. Watch an example.

The Haven NightLight is a small rechargeable LED light with a clip and a strap, so it goes almost anywhere — spreader bars, trekking poles, your bike, or loose around camp. It's a smaller companion to the RidgeLight.

1. To strap it to a bar, set the light against the bar, pull the strap around, and it's connected — quick, easy, and always where you left it.
2. Click the power button to cycle through three brightness levels.
3. Hold the power button for a strobe — handy as a caution light on the back of a bike.

The kit comes with two lights, red and white. Red preserves your night vision and is less visible over long distances; white is plenty bright to read by.

Whoopie slings weigh next to nothing and open up where you can hang — around trees that are too big around, or too far apart for a short strap tail.

The parts: an adjustable loop that connects to your tree straps, and a fixed eye (the loop that doesn't slide) that goes onto your hammock.

How it works:

• Pull the tail to take tension out of the system. The "bury" holds it in place like a Chinese finger trap — the more weight you add, the harder it grips the tail.
• To lower the hammock again, take your weight off and pull the sliding side of the adjustable loop.
• Make micro-adjustments — raise one side a little or lower the other — to get the sleeping platform as flat as possible.

The insulated pad cover fights "cold butt syndrome" — in a hammock you may have plenty of insulation above you but only a thin layer beneath, letting cold air chill your back and seat. The Haven Tent already reduces this with its insulated air mattress; the pad cover adds warmth for colder nights.

1. Lay the pad cover on top of your pad, matching the head and foot ends (it's directional).
2. Tuck it into the corners.
3. Secure it in place with the buckles.

Because it's the only pad cover designed specifically for hammock camping, the insulation is zoned — coverage for your legs, more for your core, and the most under your midsection. It also quiets pad movement and protects the mattress, and folds into a great pillow when you don't need the insulation. Comes in two sizes: Standard (original Haven Tent) and XL (Haven XL and Haven Safari).

The Insulated Pad Cover comes in two sizes: Standard (78 x 24 in) for the original Haven Tent, and XL/Safari (80 x 30 in) for the Haven XL and Haven Safari. The XL/Safari cover also fits the True Level XL Insulated Pad, which is the same size as the original XL pad — and with the True Level pad's extra insulation, it holds in even more heat.

There are two versions:

• Current model (Standard and XL/Safari): attaches with four corner pockets and two bottom buckles for a secure fit.
• 1st Generation (Standard size only): slides on like a sleeve for a snug fit.

Both versions roughly double your pad's insulation.

Spectre straps are Haven's lightweight tree straps — the straps weigh just 3.28 oz and stretch extra long (150 in each) for a 25 ft total span, so they pack small and handle almost any spacing.

Two parts: a 1-inch webbing strap that wraps the tree, and a whoopie sling that adjusts. The fixed eye is compatible with all hammock systems.

1. Wrap the webbing around each tree.
2. If a tree is too big — or the straps don't line up — add a daisy-chain extension. Each has 10 segments for adjustability and adds 39 in (1 m) of reach.
3. Pull the tail of the whoopie sling to take up the slack until the hammock sits right where you need it.

The whoopie sling works like a Chinese finger trap: as you weight the hammock, the bury grips the tail and the loop stays in place.

The Mammoth Mount XL is a hammock hitch mount built to be extra strong — rated up to 450 lbs — and compatible with all Haven Tent models and traditional hammocks too. Adventure Hammock Systems updated the design: the arms are now powdercoated steel for a black-on-black look, they telescope and lock with built-in pop pins, and each arm has an integrated attachment tab for your hammock. Same dimensions and the same 450 lb rating as before — it is about a pound heavier with the steel arms, and there is no extra arm hardware to install or keep track of.

1. Leave the receiver section on your hitch (you can keep it there as you drive around).
2. Slide the arms into the main frame and push each one all the way in until it is fully seated. The arm dimensions were updated slightly so they seat cleanly every time.
3. Pull the pop pins, telescope the arms out to the height you want, and let the pins lock back in.
4. Add the hitch riser extension if you want even more height.
5. Hang your Haven straight from the integrated tabs on the arms — nothing to install first — and lie completely flat.

The top sections are solid bars, so it doesn't rattle or make noise when you get in and out. If the hammock swings, it rests against the back bar, which stops the motion — nice if you don't like the hammock to move a lot. Best of all, it doesn't block the tailgate and gets better gas mileage than a rooftop tent. It also takes our awning kits directly, with no adapters required.

Heads up: the overview video at the top of this guide was filmed on the previous arm design. The mount goes together the same way, but the current version has the telescoping steel arms and built-in tabs you see in the setup video above.

Bare Bones XL is our favorite way to pitch a Haven Tent — or a regular hammock — off the back of your car or truck. The stand comes with a hitch piece (leave it in the receiver) and six pieces of tubing.

1. Insert the largest tubes first.
2. Add the small connecting pieces.
3. Finish with the tubes that have the end for your hammock straps.
4. Hang your hammock — straps aren't included, so leave your own on the stand.

If your receiver sits low (this truck's was 18 in off the ground), add the 6-inch riser for more height. Bare Bones XL is large enough for every Haven Tent model — even the Safari — and fits an 11 ft gathered-end hammock too. Put the head end a little higher and pull the lounge strap to start in a sitting mode.

The Repair Kit comes with a couple of patches and a tube of UV-activated sealant — and it works on the entire tent, rainfly, and pad. Unlike the cheap one-time epoxy in most kits (which can take up to 24 hours to cure), this sealant is reusable and cures in as little as 30 seconds.

Using the UV sealant:

• Make sure the area is clean and dry.
• Apply the sealant, overlapping onto undamaged material about a quarter inch.
• Work in the shade — UV light is what cures it, so it sets fast once you bring it into the sun.

The sealant also reseals seams: if the seam tape on your rainfly or hammock breaks down, remove the broken segment and apply sealant to both the inside and the outside.

Using the patches (pad or hammock body):

• Cut a patch to size with about a half inch of coverage on the edges, and round the corners so it won't peel.
• For a hole in the hammock body, apply the patch on the inside so your weight helps hold it in place.

Both the tape and sealant stay flexible, so you can still pack and roll your gear. If the hammock body itself was punctured, treat it as compromised and hang low to the ground to be safe.

Lost a stake or snapped a spreader bar? Spares — spreader bars, tree straps, guylines, stakes, spreader bar caps and bug net patches — are in our Replacement Parts collection.

If the part you need isn't listed, contact us. If we have it, we'll send you an invoice so you can complete the purchase.

Bug nets are made with their tent body, so they aren't interchangeable — replacing a net means replacing the hammock body.

Did a part fail from a defect during normal use? That's covered by our Lifetime Care Warranty — start a claim at account.haventents.com. Damage from a mishap may still qualify for a Gear Revival Credit.